BAGUIO CITY—It’s common to see the end of the queue as you enter the parking lot—long before you get to the front doors—of L’Atelier du Grain in this mountain city.

“We usually sell more than 3,000 kinds of breads and pastries per day in the weekends,” says co-owner Merna Brazil. At the helm of the enterprise is her husband, Chef Didier Derouet, who has decades of experience in restaurants and hotels worldwide.

French by birth, Didier has spent more time living outside his native country than in it. At the age of 14 and determined to specialize in pastries, he began his apprenticeship. After he completed it at the age of 20, he embarked on a career that would span four continents. His first destination? Despite knowing very little English, he started his professional career in the United States.

To the mountain

Neither Didier nor Merna had ties to Baguio City but in 2016, when he decided that he wanted a change of pace from the frenetic atmosphere of five-star hotels and restaurants, they determined that the laidback City of Pines was a good choice. So, as many have done before and after them, they set off to see what Baguio had to offer.

They started a small dining endeavor at the home that they rented. In time, at the prodding of friends, Didier was conducting workshops for Baguio residents excited to learn from a French chef. He first taught them breadmaking; eventually, he was offering lessons in 20 different subjects.

Until now, Didier’s former students who have set up their own businesses turn to him for advice on the various aspects of hotel and restaurant management. “It’s only fair to pass on what I have learned,” he said.

As early as 2019, the Derouets had engaged in exploratory talks to collaborate with Jackson and Cristina So, Baguio entrepreneurs themselves. But the Covid-19 pandemic paused their plans. The Derouets decided to go back to Manila, where they offered healthy meal deliveries.

Yet the couples never lost touch. In mid-2023, as the Sos were considering what to do with a small space in their property on Military Cut-off Road—an area now abuzz with different dining establishments—they called Didier with a proposal: Why not offer pastries and breads at the 30-something-square-meter space below their soon-to-open restaurant, The Gallery by Witchcraft? Soon the Derouets were again heading north, and in February 2024 they opened L’Atelier du Grain.

Baked-treats heaven

In the selling area, you can find baked treats originating from different points on the planet—croissants, pain au chocolat, kouign-amann, madeleines, and baguettes; sourdough breads including boule, focaccia, and bagels; strawberry tarts, cheesecakes with rhubarb, passion fruit, or lemon; even babkas.

The store’s name translates to “The Grain Workshop,” and you can see that clearly when you peer through the glass into the kitchen and observe the staff members preparing breads, pastries, and more—fresh, daily. Outside, there are two small tables where you can dig into your purchases immediately. Or you can take the stairs to The Gallery and enjoy them with a steaming hot beverage and a stunning view of the mountains.

The customers come from everywhere (even from as far as the provinces of Bataan, La Union, and Pampanga) and from all walks of life (from celebrities who arrive in their imported vehicles to students who walk all the way there on weekends to spend their savings on high-quality breads).

My good friend, whose mom is French and who spends summers in France, stopped at L’Atelier du Grain early this year. After trying several items on the menu, she remarked: “Honestly, the croissants are as good as they are in France, and some of the other stuff are even better!” She brought an ube tart all the way to Europe for her parents to try. (She said they loved it.)

Doing their part

It’s worth mentioning that Didier and Merna also do their share for the community.

Didier says that when he was based in Washington, DC, he was part of “The Chefs’ Club About Nothing,” an informal exclusive group that gathered once a month. (Imagine being a fly at their table.) He recalls that beyond dishing and wining and dining at each other’s restaurants, the members helped one another by serving as sounding board, and even providing a necessary ingredient, to whoever needed it at the moment. 

One more thing the chefs did well, and consistently, was to collaborate for certain causes—from a charity event for tsunami victims in another part of the world to a health emergency in their own communities, he says. They lent their time, talent, and expertise to meaningful endeavors. 

It is this spirit that Didier continues to keep alive, most notably during the recent 10-day stretch of rain that left the people of Baguio weary, and many hungry, and in the aftermath of a massive fire in a densely populated area of the city.

Growing 

The clamor for Didier and Merna to expand L’Atelier du Grain has been consistent and loud. In May, they opened a kiosk at The Marketplace along Leonard Wood Road.

Yesterday, Oct. 8, they launched a branch closer to the city center, at Paladin Hotel on Carino Street. The 40-square-meter space has a small dining area for customers. Soon, they will open a pop-up at SM Baguio. And the bustling first branch will expand to occupy a bigger space.  

It looks like locals and tourists alike cannot get enough of this “workshop.” And why not, when the Derouets have decided that for the moment, Baguio is home?