TOKYO—The Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu right above the Shibuya Mark City Mall that is connected to the Shibuya Station is near two of the district’s most iconic landmarks—the Hachiko Statue and the Shibuya Crossing.
It was perfect for our three-day vacation in central Shibuya. My younger sister Kristine, who loves traveling to Japan which she calls her “happy place,” planned the trip as her postbirthday treat for me. Our itinerary was a mix of must-sees and spontaneous discoveries.
We arrived on Philippine Airlines at the Haneda Airport on a Friday afternoon. We took the airport limousine bus that dropped us off at the hotel in time for our 3 p.m. check-in. Per our request, we got a room overlooking the Shibuya Crossing and surrounding areas. More than just a place to sleep, our corner room on the 10th floor became our private observation deck and an integral part of our travel experience.
Our elevated view allowed us full appreciation of the “organized chaos” of the Shibuya Crossing, the world’s busiest intersection and a convergence of five major crosswalks that fill with people simultaneously crossing in multiple directions as soon as the pedestrian signal turns green. This phenomenon, which has drawn global interest, is why it’s nicknamed “The Scramble.”
A symbol of Tokyo’s dynamic urban energy, the Shibuya Crossing is also known for its vibrant neon-lit surroundings and branching streets that lead to commercial and entertainment areas.
We had our first “Scramble experience” heading to Center Gai, dubbed as the pulsating artery of Tokyo’s youth culture and fashion scene. It is lined on both sides with a variety of shops—from top fast fashion brands to less-known niche boutiques, arcades, pubs, bars, and diverse dining establishments.
After surveying Center Gai and nearby streets for an early dinner spot, we settled on a small eatery that boasts of serving the No. 1 ramen. Orders are placed and paid for via a touchscreen ticket vending machine, a convenience for non-Japanese speaking customers. I had the soy sauce-based soup and Kristine the spicy bean paste soup; we shared a side order of handmade dumplings.
For dessert, we went to a coffee place for its Tenku no Matcha latte which we paired with a slice of almond dark chocolate cake.
Our next stop was at a branch of GU, a Japanese fashion retailer and “sister brand” of Uniqlo. It caters to the young market but also offers apparel appropriate for mature shoppers. There are self-checkout counters that allow you to scan and pay for items on your own.
The remainder of the evening was spent immersing ourselves in the Shibuya vibe—energetic but not rushed, full of sights and sounds yet not overwhelming.
We took note of places to visit for food and shopping on Days 2 and 3 of our stay. These included a resto offering the “best chicken in Japan,” a quaint stall selling wagyu shawarma rice bowl, the second-floor L’Occitane Café, the Tokyu Foodshow’s sweets zone on the ground floor of Mark City Mall, and the McDonald’s branch on Center Gai to try something unique from their Japan menu.
Back in our hotel room, we marveled at the view of a nightlife hub lighted by billboards, neon displays, and giant screens. We decided to sleep with the curtains open to let the city lights in and keep us connected to the dazzling world outside.
On our second day, we checked out popular tourist destinations in Shibuya.
Early morning was reserved for Hachiko, Japan’s deeply loved dog and symbol of loyalty. The Hachiko Statue is just outside the Shibuya Station where the legendary Akita was said to have waited almost a decade for his master to return. With our hotel right across from it, we were able to take photos while the area was still crowd-free.
Next was Meiji Jingu, the only one on our list that’s not a stroll away from our hotel. It took us 10 minutes by Uber taxi to get to the Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress Shōken, revered as icons of Japan’s modernization. It is inside a 70-hectare man-made forest built in 1920 with 100,000 transplanted trees donated from across the country.
At the entrance there is a giant torii gate, a traditional marker for Shinto shrines said to signify the transition from the mortal world to a sacred realm. Passing through the towering wooden structure, we were led to a wide pathway under a dense canopy of trees amid bird sounds and the rustling of leaves. The walk to the main shrine was in equal parts calming and exciting.
What came into view next were neatly arranged stacks of sake and wine barrels. From the markers, we learned that the barrels of sake are offered every year by members of the Meiji Jingu Nationwide Sake Brewers Association and other sake brewers in Japan to show their deep respect for the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken. The barrels of French wine, on the other hand, represent Emperor Meiji’s fondness for wine and embrace of Western culture. He adopted a “Japanese Spirit and Western Knowledge” policy and led Japan to learn the best of Western culture while preserving the nation’s age-old spirit and valued traditions.
As we made our way to the main shrine building, we passed through another torii gate, even larger than the one by the entrance, aptly called o-torii (great torii).
A few more minutes of walking and we arrived at the “Hoden” where ceremonies and rituals are performed.
Visitors are allowed to take part in the rituals by offering words of gratitude or wishes. You can write them on wooden boards called “ema” (¥500 apiece) that you hang on the racks set up around the sacred camphor tree in front of the main shrine. These are collected and burned during the morning ceremony. Paper and envelopes are available for writing letters to the “kami” or spirits which you slip into an offertory box together with your monetary offering.
Before leaving Meiji Jingu, we stopped at the Mouri souvenir shop on the Forest Terrace where you can also find a restaurant, a café, and the restrooms. There is a wide selection of commemorative items and interesting food products like the Yokan sweet bean bar and the sweet potato and chestnut cookies.
Back in our hotel, we had time to rest and eat lunch before our 2:30 p.m. schedule at the Shibuya Sky, located on the rooftop of the nearby Shibuya Scramble Square. (Kristine had booked our tickets in advance through Klook (¥1700 per adult) as weekend slots sell out quickly.)
The 229-meter-high, open-air observation deck with expansive glass panels offers a 360-degree unobstructed view of Tokyo. You can look down at the Shibuya Crossing and the railway lines that run through the Shibuya Station or gaze out at the vast cityscape accented by Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower. From above, the Meiji Jingu and the adjacent Yoyogi Park are visible as sprawling green spaces in an urban landscape.
What made the experience even more exhilarating was the feel of the wind on our faces as we marveled at the breathtaking view, relaxed on the cloud hammocks while gazing at the sky, posed by the ultimate photo spot called the Sky Edge, and savored the panorama from the helipad of Japan’s highest rooftop observatory deck.
On the first floor of Shibuya Scramble Square, there is an array of baked goods and desserts from French pastries to traditional Japanese sweets. Matcha fanatics like my sister Kristine can choose from several specialty food shops that offer cookies, cakes, and chocolates in their favorite flavor.
Last on our list was Miyashita Park, a multifunctional modern complex that was bustling with locals and tourists on that Saturday evening. The complex, 330 meters long, integrates a three-story mall with shops and restaurants, a hotel, and a public rooftop park which we found most interesting.
The fourth-level park, a popular spot for young people to chill, features facilities for skateboarding and wall climbing, and even a sand-coated area for beach volleyball. There are lawns, steel benches, and a giant staircase that also serves as a common seating area. Steel arches equipped with mesh panels to support vining plants cover some areas of the park—a purposeful, distinctive architectural design.
We got up early the next day to beat the Sunday crowd at the MEGA Don Quijote Shibuya Honten. Open 24/7, the MEGA Donki branch near our hotel has a basement level and seven other floors offering a wide range of products including groceries, delicacies, gadgets, cosmetics, health foods, toys, sporting goods, electronics, apparel, footwear, and souvenirs.
Kristine and I had a relaxed time shopping for pasalubong. There were very few other customers, and we didn’t have to wait in line to pay at the seventh-floor counter where tourists, with passports ready, can avail themselves of tax exemption on purchases worth ¥5,000 or more.
For us to get to Haneda Airport in time for our early-afternoon flight to Manila, we needed to catch the 11:15 a.m. airport limousine at the designated stop right outside our hotel’s fifth-floor lobby. We were done shopping by 8 a.m., so we were in no rush. We bought takeout breakfast and enjoyed it in our room while watching Shibuya Crossing begin to fill with pedestrians, like a movie set slowly coming to action.
We are fortunate to have seen and experienced Shibuya Crossing at different times of the day—in the early morning when it’s nearly empty, mid-morning and early afternoon when it’s not overly busy, and in its world-famous chaotic peak hours.
Our stay in the heart of Shibuya has gifted me with memories of the exuberance of modern Tokyo, home to Japan’s iconic sights and cultural treasures.
Arigatou gozaimasu.
